In these times between volunteering - which overstates my helpfulness - I am a tourist. Speaking only English and wearing tennis shoes (at least they're not white with white socks), my only stab at the insider's experience is with hosted stops.
I'm not sure which is the backdrop for the other, the visits to the famous and beautiful places or the evening spent around the table getting to know my national hosts. I've found a motley bunch these past weeks, mostly Servas. I hope to treat their stories with respect, and to that end, I may omit some details - but I have no problem communicating through email if you're interested.
Family One - Reggio Emelia, Italy. One of the two cities which produces Parmesan cheese (the other is Parma). A couple, each about 35, with a 19 mo. daughter. We spent two evenings together. Their daughter managed to learn my name, "Anna," said with a burgeoning Italian accent. Self-declared as isolated after the birth of their daughter, the husband's job was so stressful he was physically ill the second night of my visit, and they were dealing with help/pressure from their family to purchase a house.
Family Two - near Lago Maggiore, Italy. 64 yr old mother with two adult sons at home, all running an agritourism restaurant. She had a little buddha in the kitchen and prayer flags fluttering outside. Generous to speak what little English she knew. An easy stay, very cozy in a cold, old farmhouse with warm duvet and chestnuts roasting on a wood burning stove. With the high-heeled boots and tapered jeans of Milan some hours away, i enjoyed a measure of popularity between the youngest son and the cooks from Kyrgyzstan and Morocco.
Man Three - the middle of Switzerland. Servas listed him with no family, but he is in the middle of a divorce and has three kids. In order to avoid supporting his ex- for the rest of her life, he has no house and works only two days a week. We stayed one night at his sister's house and one with his friend in Interlaken. A generous and attentive host, also lonely and hurt - a most uncomfortable stay.
Two nights in Gimmelwald, Switzerland, one night in a room of a farm family, night two at the aptly-named Mountain Hostel. Made friends at the grocery store including a gourmet chef lately of San Fran who I climbed with on Wednesday, and two surf bums from San Clemente, near Irvine, California. Staggeringly beautiful scenery and restful interactions with no expectation of cultural exchange.
Couple Five - Liechtenstein. Scene: One of the three finest homes I've ever been in, once owned by actor Oskar Werner. Complete with a "no bathing costume required" indoor pool, three art collections, and overlooking the Rhine as it separates the country of 36,000 from Switzerland. A lifetime of culture, international careers, and a love for their little principality made this couple extremely interesting if a bit intimidating.
Tour Group of Twenty-Eight - Milan, Italy. Chinese Malay tourists. I sat by two ladies on the train tonight and they said I could crash in their hotel room if I come between eleven and midnight. It beats staying in the Milan train station. Headed south to Alba tomorrow for a truffle festival. Developing...
1 comment:
Hannah,
When you said you were not sure whether the famous sites or the people were the backdrop for the other, that really struck a chord with me. As I have gained more travel experience (nothing compared to you my globetrotting friend) I am starting to realize that sites, churches, statues, and famous landmarks do not really get me excited. However, if I spend an hour in a cafe, smoking Nargileh and drinking Arabic Coffee, I am excited. I wonder if this is a secret that all well-travelled individuals learn, or if we are part of the privelleged few.
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