Thursday, November 19, 2009

Bozkashi

I think it's safe to say bozkashi is the national sport, and my town has a glorious new field backing up to the river. It must be somehow related to polo, but actually polo and rugby and rodeo. A headless goat, boz, carcass serves as the ball. I couldn't just tell you the rules, but there's a scrummage for a while, driving the horses into a tight pack with lots of whipping, then someone breaks out with the goat and races their horse like mad to the other end of the field while the others chase them. There are men on horses, maybe 20 per side, but they fluidly enter and exit the huge field.

I was basically the only woman there, and there were 2000 or 3000 men. I had to cross the field at one point since my house is on the other side. My colleague who's my mother's age, walked me across, but he wanted to film as we went. At one point we crossed in front of the grand stands, so to speak, where at least 1,000 guys were sitting. The announcer had a microphone and said, "Hello Meester, honumaton (your wife) - veerdy good, veerdy, veerdy, good."


The finest detail in town, Olympic ring gates around the entire field which must be a half a mile perimeter


It's amazing what you can teach a horse to do


The two horses on the left have the goat carcass between them, you can actually sort of see it between the white horse's legs

9 comments:

Unknown said...

Astonishing photos, Hannah, just awesome. Thank you. I've seen Bozkashi on television documentaries, but I can hardly imagine seeing it live. Must have been fantastic. Very envious. Good on you.

mark said...

I would certainly aggree that it is amazing what you can train a horse - but equally amazing what you can do with a goat. Meat, cheese, garbage disposal. And apparently - they can be used as sport. One wonder's what is done with the goat afterword - it should certainly be tender by now. Goat stew anyone - to the victor goes the spoil?

romsafarms said...

What an amazing, cultural site. Of course you know "The Sport Of Kings"--Polo has barbaric origins. It all began in India with the head of a human spoil of battle.

The horses are beautiful! Thanks for sharing this!

Anonymous said...

Great experience! I always wanted to see a game, but never had the chance. I can hear the announcer's voice talking about you in such a manner and think I'm glad that wasn't me :)

Dan and Lynn said...

WOW! That must have been amazing! Best photos ever! You'll have to explain it more then you get home! What an experience for a girl from Chugwater!
XXOO

Eden said...

This is amazing! I read about Bozkashi in Rory Stewart's book, but I love the bit about the announcement -- in front of so many people!! And the photos.

Devi said...

This looks like something out of a movie..

Leah said...

hans - what an adventure on your doorstep... and not surprised at all that the olympic gates made it in the pics! was it you who loved the magical combo of olympic cheerios?

ATB said...

This is my favorite post yet...I can just imagine you going across the field...so funny!